Laos Central Laos Tour

Myself and my pal Darryl decided after a trip to Nan to skip over the border for a few days riding with no definite plan in mind other than to ride as much as possible, we covered approx 2,200 Km's in seven day's, entering at the crossing point at Huai Khon and spending our first night at Hongsa.

After spending the night and consuming some of the local beverage we headed off along the 4B to luang Prabang, this proved to be a great section with lots of picture opportunities along the way.

We arrived at Luang Prabang in good time even after Darryls bike died on the last river crossing (counted nine) for no good reason 

After a relaxing night in LP we or I had the brain wave to head south and ride to Phonsavan on route 5 and then route 10 north of Nam Phao rather than Taking route 7, so off we went the next morning with some adventure in mind.

The road south from LP to Vang Vieng is the stuff of nightmares slick shining surface, pot holes on every apex and drivers on a death wish, it was no surprise when we weakened to an impromptu overnight night stop just north of Vang Vieng giving ourselves a good days ride to Phonsavan the next day.

After a chilly start we reached Nam Phao on route 5 in good time as the road turned to dirt and rocks and the occasional muddy section, the river was on our left shoulder at this time, all was well until we reached a logging point at the side of the river. 

After consulting my GPS and scouting around we found this dirt trail.

Thinking we had cracked it we continued on, my GPS telling me to continue on route 5 and then saying continue to trail (this was a bad sign), we then came to this.

Something was clearly wrong, the GPS was showing a road in front of us that was just not there, after a bit of scouting around it was clear we had reached the road to nowhere and had either missed a turn or the river level had risen and the road was impassible. The thought of heading back up route 13N towards LP was not the favoured option, but since it was clear the day was passing us by we reluctantly headed back the way we came with our tails between our legs.

No time for many pictures on the next leg, although route 7 to Phonsavan was a delight from what i remember from a couple of years previous, arriving in Phonsavan as darkness fell, tired and hungry we checked into the fancy Chinese hotel the Xieng Khouang.

Next morning off to Nong Khiaw and a good days riding was had, checked into the Riverside, wow this small town has changed so much with many new restaurants and bars springing up.

Next morning with baguettes to go we hit the 13N to Oudomsay, nothing much to say about this section apart from my bum hurts 

 the road from Oudomsay is another great section of road which helped us forget about the earlier morning's bone jarring.

We did get some nice pictures of the Hmong festival.

We arrived a Luang Namtha with my mate scouting around town for his customary massage spot we settled into the Royal Star for the night in preparation for the mornings blast to the border.

For me the best road so far was route 3 to Houay Xai, forget the 1148, this road is amazing 

We arrived at the border crossing around 12 noon thinking we would be home early, sadly the ferry operator on the Laos side had other plans and wouldn't leave until he had a boat full, we did try to commandeer couple of small boats bringing some bikers from Chiang Khong, the the ferry guy was having none of it. after three hours hanging around he decided it was time to go just as the food i had ordered arrived on my table 

Arriving Thai side the immigration staff greeted us with warm smiles and off we went to the land of milk and honey, until next February when we will find that damn road 

So that was it a great few days riding, some great memories.

Laos First Trip To Laos 2010

Myself Dennis and Stig (later to be joined with Darryl) embarked on our first trip into Laos, armed with paper maps and a very basic GPS map we headed to Chiang Khong to make the ferry crossing and unknown territory.

Day 1

The ferry was still in operation back then and pretty busy.

Fist stop and beer and baguette.

Once clear of immigration which was confusing to say the least it was off to Luang Namtha for our first over night.

This coach had been there a while and would stay there for several more years.

We searched around and found this pretty shabby bungalow GH for the night.

Luckily we found the Manychan restaurant for some good food.

Day 2

Next day we planned to go to Pongsali, things didn't go exactly as planned.

We arrived at the auction of the 13 to 1830 for a drink and check out the market.

The 1830 ahead it was to be a dusty ride.

We had been advised of a junction and to turn right, we turned too soon and got lost in this village.

Here we see Dennis trying to get some information from the locals where we went wrong.

Time for some refreshment so we stopped at this innocent looking beer stop.

Back underway on the right track.

Not sure what was going on here but had to wait while they transferred whatever they had been carrying.

Another wrong turn, somehow we ended up at a Chinese border post.

Another U turn and back heading north.

Small toll bridge, one of many.

Lady setting up a shop selling rice.

Getting pretty dusty at the back.

We came across these hill tribe people, they looked terrified of these strange looking people.

Small school all the kids lining up to sing the national anthem as the fag is raised.

Another small village they didn't want a picture taken here.

The scenery was stunning in this area.

Pretty dusty.

Stopped for gas in this small village and gave some kids some sweets.

Chillies drying in the sun.

Still smiling we stopped over for a beer.

A couple of hours later, looking slightly worse for wear, darkness fell and we still had a long long way to go, by know i was almost blind being at the back for eyes for of dust.

After what seamed forever we finally made in into town and found the Phou Fah fort for the night, next job trying to get some food, Dennis spoke a little Chinese so what with some pointing at various body parts we got some very nice noddles.

Next morning it was back on the map trying to figure out where we went wrong and hoped we would find an easy route to Khua.

Morning in Pongsali is very cold all year round so we had a poke around town.

Day 3

The ride to town was pretty smooth and graded so no issues, but we had still go down the rocky 1B which was not so much fun.

Gas was hard to find so whenever so saw some it was foolish to pass it by, at this stop we had been offered all kinds of bush meat to go.

Typical fuel drum pump set up.

We arrived in Khua pretty quickly and settled for the night.

Over dinner i talked with a local guide and asked if it would be possible to put our bikes on a boat and head down to Nong Khiew, after a chat with a local skipper it was agreed.

The old ferry in Khua still in operation back then.

Next morning at the waters edge we watched as teams of locals hauled our bikes aboard.

Once aboard it was time to chill and watch the world go by.

We arrived in Nong Khiew, now we had to get the bikes off the boat, the local helpers had us by the balls but to be fair charged us very little to carry the bikes up the stairs.

Once back on terra firma it was time for some food and beer at the CT restaurant.

Pretty nice rooms in town.

After a great night in town it was time to get back on the bikes and head to Phonsavan.

Day 4

Morning in Nong Khiew is always beautiful.

After breakfast our plan was to ride to Phonsavan, the road was paved and fast.

Maybe a few too many drink stops had us stop the night in Muang Khan.

The guesthouse was the worst so far.

After an uneventful ride we got to Phonsavan for the night.

Our hotel for the night.

Around town pretty quiet.

Big Chinese hotel in the centre of town.

Next morning it was a nice easy ride to Kasi for the night, the mountain roads in this area give some fabulous views.

Not the most glamorous GH of the trip.

The Gh was pretty horrible but had great views.

Relaxing with some afternoon beverage.

These kid's had been given the job of plucking ducks in boiling hot water, their reward was the duck innards for food.

Guesthouse owners putting our bikes to bed for the night.

Morning in Kasi was pretty chilly.

Day 5 & 6

The next destination was Luang Prabang where we would meet up with Darryl and stop over for two nights to enjoy the place and get some much needed laundry done.

The route north is well paved and no problems we arrived in Luang Prabang early afternoon.

Luang Prabang.

Enjoyable evening at the Hive taking in the ethnic show.

Day 7

Next morning was to the last day in Laos and the dustiest day of the trip.

Stig still smiling and all clean being at the front of the group.

My bike not looking so clean being in the rear.

Lots of bulldust making it slow going.

The old ferry crossing at Pakkhon, now long gone.

Dirty but happy Darryl.

On the ferry.

The only elephant we saw on the trip.

Trying to get the shy kids to view the picture on the camera.

So that was it, it was a great ride and over 2000 km covered, the first of many trips to come in Laos.