Wednesday 16 April 2014

Laos Sayabouri To Nan



Day 13 14 Sayabouri To Nan (Tony's Place)



Day 13-14 Sayabouri to Nan (Tony’s Place)  271 Km Nan to Chiang Khong 283 Km





My final night in Laos was spent with my Thai friend "Bank" and his two pals who just happened to be in Sayabouri at the same time as myself after riding the 4B from Luang Prabang, a nice relaxing evening ensued and large amounts of beer consumed



Suitably adorned KLX


The following morning i agreed to get them over to Hongsa and then the border crossing since they were unsure of the route, but not before i watched them make heavy work of eating some hard boiled egg’s for breakfast.



The chosen route from Sayaburi to Hongsa is a very pleasant ride and paved the whole way although many of the corners are broken up and care needs to be taken due to oncoming vehicles cutting the corners to avoid the pot holes.


We arrived in Hongsa in good time and a sprint finish along the beautifully paved highway is always a joy to ride to the border point, crossing was a breeze and i bid my goodbyes to my buddies.




Soon headed to Nan for a late afternoon beer and chat with Tony.

The following morning i headed up towards Chiang Khong to meet up with Mr Deeks mid way, an uneventful ride apart from the previous night a small colony of small red ants decided to make a home in my helmet. 

I had conveniently stopped outside a police box, where the nice police officer gave me some water and sprayed the inside my helmet to rid me of the little blighters.


A fun filled evening in Chiang Khong exploring the various watering holes had me waking bleary eyed but  ready for a nice easy ride home.

Sadly the green machine decided otherwise and the rear wheel locked up as i was leaving town, which turned out to be a worn out cam chain tensioner causing the cam chain to jump a tooth locking up the engine.


So after 14 trouble free days and 3,500 Km my adventure had come to a sad conclusion and i awaited for my friend to come rescue me and take me back to Chiang Rai, but not before sampling Platypus (think it was duck) from the menu at the BBQ restaurant perfectly located where my bike came to rest.






Another enjoyable trip to Laos had come to an end bitter sweet in some way’s but never the less the place will always draw me back to explore newer trails that await closer inspection.




Tuesday 15 April 2014

Laos Chomcheng To Sayabouri Via Paklay Dirt Trail



Day 12 Chomcheng to Sayaburi


277 Km 11 1/2 hours

Sometimes riding in Laos although beautiful can be depressing, the speed of change and deforestation is alarming. Todays ride was a real joy and reminded me why i continue to return to this sleepy little country.










Chomcheng Border point


The  ride from Chomcheng was my turn around point to head North and is all paved and a very easy scenic ride



Arrived in good time at the Khemhong Restaurant in Paklay and had a nice breakfast while talking to one of the English speaking guides from Off Road Laos Adventures stopping at the Sayadeth GH across the road (good place to stay by the way) and talked about my route through the national park.


The mekong early morning view from the restaurant 



Almost unused slip at Parklay


The start of the trail from Paklay is a nice cooling water crossing, here you have options, the first one was awash with green moss and had a risky looking climb after it, so i moved upstream to a more easy crossing





I should say at this point, if you have not done this trail before you should, but do it quickly, although most of it goes through the national park it will surely get upgraded sooner or later


The start it a nice graded surface up to Thongmyxay






Easy so far but very beautiful



Still graded 


Then i came across these guy’s





Two working elephants on their way to work, i stopped for a while and chatted with the very proud mahouts 




Notice the guy with the AK47 on the bike


This ride was turning out to be better than i would i have hoped




Then not long after another, this one had water to go and was cooling off as he walked 





That was three sightings in one day, normally i never see any on a trip like this

Heading down into a small village



These guy’s flagged me down for a picture and to ask where i was heading


Songkran still in full swing here


More gravel tracks


Beautiful Wat entrance, marking the start of the national park area


Great views although still smoke spoiling the landscape


Almost no water crossings as new bridges appeared


Laundry time as his son practices his duck diving



Now the trail got interesting and steep




As usual the camera never capture how steep it was



Now this was the fun part


Then the trail got less used


Then i came upon this beautiful crossing




From this point it was almost single trail and little sign of 4WD’s


This guy shouted me to stop, i wasn’t about to argue with him holding his AK47, he only wanted to beg a cigarette. As we chatted i heard thunder and he suggest i should get the hell out of here, i agreed i didn’t want a reoccurrence of several days back ! !


Seldom used



I could hear the rain behind me i hoped this time i could outrun it


Finally the dark clouds behind me



Good job this had been cleared


Came across this very small settlement, a guy came out to talk, but i had an uneasy feeling about the situation and kept the engine running and with a wave i was off 




Some evidence of fires


And blow me, another elephant. This one was 28 years old and the mahout had been with it since it was two years old








The mountains behind me the trail opened up


One of the larger villages





In danger of getting very wet here but they all wanted a picture




Never seen trucks loaded with so much timber, this way



More great views


It was hot and these guys know how to cool off






Even the wild pigs had the same idea


So did the locals


Forestry checkpoint



Well it had been an amazing day, the best of the trip, back onto tarmac and heading to the bridge in Sayabouri


Spending the night in the Vang Moungkhoun GH




My trip almost over, the next days to the Nan Crossing back into Thailand

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