Day 5 & 6 Khua to Luang Prabang and Phonsavan
Well today was a bit of a farce so i will be brief, for some reason my GPS was having a dicky fit ( or more likely the mornings hangover had a part to play) i had laid out a route through Nambak and Vieng Kham to Luang Prabang which i had done part of before but could not pick up the trail head on my GPS.
After wasting too long trying i gave up and decided to back track to Oudomxai and the infamous the bumpy road towards Nong Khiew and head to Luang Prabang.
After wasting too long trying i gave up and decided to back track to Oudomxai and the infamous the bumpy road towards Nong Khiew and head to Luang Prabang.
Anyway’s the day was a waste the section of the 13N was as bad as ever and every time i promise i will never ride it again.
To cap it all i was about 3 Km from the junction at Pak Mong to head South to Luang Prabang and got held up in roadworks, which i later found had given me heat stroke and feeling like shit.
That night i walked down to the Nisa indian restaurant and watched a bunch of six back packers sit and eat a chapatti each and gorge themselves on the free chutney the topic of conversation was who had the most string amulets, oh what joy !!!!
To cap it all i was about 3 Km from the junction at Pak Mong to head South to Luang Prabang and got held up in roadworks, which i later found had given me heat stroke and feeling like shit.
That night i walked down to the Nisa indian restaurant and watched a bunch of six back packers sit and eat a chapatti each and gorge themselves on the free chutney the topic of conversation was who had the most string amulets, oh what joy !!!!
The night in the Phonemaly GH didn’t help with a three hour power cut when i arrived and with room above leaking water onto me all night long but i digress !!!!
To be fair the owner was a nice guy and very apologetic and gave me a good discount on the room.
Day 6
Not so bright eyed and bushy tailed i was off on what was one of my most memorable trails i did last year with Mark Jubb, but in lot’s of ways it was like meeting your old girlfriend and she wasn’t quite how you imagined her to be but heh ho.
For those who have not done this trail before it breaks into two options both of which will get you to Phonsavan, i chose the one passing the old airbase which was my favourite.
The bridges trail showing the two options.
The bridges trail showing the two options.
Hitting the trail my heart sank as the first 20 km or so was now hard topped a or smoothly graded
Quickly it turned into a more pleasing dirt trail
Water levels very low at the end of the dry season.
Some of the bridge construction in progress last year was no further forward the old bamboo toll bridge was now gone and a nice concrete bridge in it’s place
But this crossing had not changed one bit
Still beautiful views although now masked by the smoke
New bamboo bridge in place on this crossing for the rainy season
Still lots of water crossings along the route
The trail was thinning out like last year
Good to see this isolated farmers hut still there
Almost no traffic along this trail and a delight to ride
Always amazes me to find these guy’s in the most inaccessible places
Arrived at the river crossing a nice truck ferry was now in place
Thought maybe the guy in the canoe ferry would take me over but he was scared my bike was too heavy
So i would have to take my chances with the ferry guy. Now last year the fat lady ripped us off big time i guessed this year would be no different.
Lucky for me she was not around and got across for 10 K Kip as against the 100k kip i had been charged last time !
As i said before still lots of water crossings, but huge investment saw the trail now cut into the mountains and avoiding the villages and the best picture opportunities, but still available if you spot the detours off the graded roads
As you can see here the cut off to the old village is to the left
The old trail below
Newer graded sections, i guess only a matter of time before this whole trail becomes paved.
This area showed for me the pace of change, this same spot last year was full of huge tree's sadly all the tree’s are being logged.
Shortly after this the scenery changes dramatically and always reminds me of saddle worth moor back in England, almost no tree’s and always windy as i head to the old American Airbase
This place gives me the creeps
Completely different views from earlier in the trail.
Soon heading to Phonsavan and the tank war scrap.
Good to see the cluster bomb cases have found a good use.
Finally arrived and checked into the Dokkhoune Hotel, which i have to say is looking a little past it’s sell by date so i checked out the Orchid around the corner that will be my resting place next time.
Just in time for a snack after a very pleasant days riding.
Called into the Bamboozle and greeted a smiling Mrs Bamboozle.
Day 7 will be trying to get to the Mig’s and the unknown, well for me anyway !!
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