8-9.04.15
Since most of the boxes had been ticked riding in Southern Laos i decided to chance my luck and take a route through Long Cheng and continue to Phonsavan. After slogging my way up route 13S and 11 i decided to stop for the night in Thabok at the Tong and Mark GH good value at 50K kip a night and good choice of nearby food on offer and especially cold beer..
There is a gas station just north over the bridge but i counted numerous fuel drums along the way so fuel is not an issue.
On starting up the trail i noticed this bridge over the Nam Mang, not sure of the story here.
The route is like much in Laos some sections paved then gravel then dirt etc..
I noticed a sign for the Tad Leuk waterfall so with time on my hands i checked it out, look's like a good camping option with a new restaurant being built and toilet facilities although the dry season makes it looks not so impressive.
This route in December would be spectacular with great scenery although shrouded in the April smog.
Reaching the huge Phou Bia mining area i chatted with some workers and was told the mine is good for another five years before it's non profit making and would be closed.
As i expect after passing the mine the roads conditions became constant broken rocks and gravel, but the scenery got more interesting.
Look's like i'm getting closer.
Some major roadworks underway north of the mine.
Beautiful karst mountain ranges into view.
Pre rainy season preparations.
What's this way off in the distance.
As they got closer it was two brothers carrying what looked like the laundry.
The eldest was finding it hard going.
Pretty well graded in some sections.
Next i spotted this young girl sheltering from the sun.
Closer inspection revealed two girls of maybe four years old carrying their younger brothers or sisters.
They wasted no time running away from the strange farang.
Lot's of small communities in this region.
Major investment.
My goal almost on sight.
More kid's running from the farang.
Pulling over the ridge i had arrived, the first thing that struck me was the total lack of tree's on the northern ridge line, presumably as a result of American air dropped defoliants and the strange quietness of the place.
I rode into town and stopped at the local restaurant where i quickly got the attention of the two bar hostesses and ordered some food.
Got chatting with Mr Tuk who works on the roadways and asked if there was an issue if i stayed the night "no problem" he told me and asked if i wanted to join him later for a drink, he pointed me towards the two guesthouses (only found one), up to this point the only evidence there was army around was the sound of the very loud dinner bell !! So i bid my farewells to Mt Tuk and the young ladies and promised to return later
Quickly rode onto the runway to get a proof shot or two.
Long Cheng Abandoned Wat
Before i got settled i decided to ride up to the strange abandoned Wat on the hill and take some pictures although i was told not to go inside, i was also told by several people later the Wat held bad luck and they would not use it again something to do with General Vang Pao, and they expected to build a new Wat and bring monks back to Long Cheng for the first time in many years.
I headed to the Guesthouse and was greeted by a smiling Mr Saysamone (the owner) who also asked if i would like to join him for a drink after i had cleaned up, look's like it was to be an interesting evening.
Scrubbed up i walked the site and was not bothered by anyone (other than a shot of Lao Lao) and walked feely taking pictures.
New market place next to remains of old buildings.
Control tower next to the army camp.
Old market area.
Remains next to the old Wat.
Old crane in compound with other old military machines.
Just on the roadside next to the guesthouse.
Lot's of inquisitive faces.
Ruins everywhere.
War metal being put to good use.
Feel like i'm being watched.
Lot's of old shipping containers left behind.
Almost every house had made use of old scrap in some way.
Old munition cases everywhere.
Airstrip looking from the ramp end with the army camp on the left.
More Lao Lao on offer.
Very photogenic.
This guy had some pretty good skill's, even in flip flop's.
Compound area.
Not sure what this.
Or this.
The old Wat overlooking the strip.
Army camp situated on the ramp end of the airstrip.
More scrap.
My host Mr Saysamone, great guy despite his poor choice of shirt !
I spent the night in the company of Mr Saysamone and introduced him to Jack Daniels and in turn he showed me the various drinking and eating venues in town into the early hours. The next morning i awoke to grey black skies, i had thought to stay one more night but the thought of the unknown trail to Phonsavan in my mind i decided wisely as it turned out to push on and leave Long Cheng for another visit, indeed a strange magical place i could have spent a week here in the company of these very welcoming people..
Waking up the next morning with the hangover from hell (beer Lao Jack Daniels & Lao Lao don't mix well) Mr Saysamone invited me for breakfast, we strolled up to the market both vowing never to drink again. After some coffee and Vietnamese tea i was feeling slightly better had a haircut (and why not) and debated on the 100 km or so ride North, as i said before i could have stopped for a week the place has a calming feel, plus a local teacher wanted to show me some caves, tempted very tempted but the sound of thunder on the hilltops made the decision for me. So it was goodbye to Mr Saysamone he had been a great host and i promised to return again with a new bottle of Jack Daniels !
My route from Long Cheng to Phonsavan.
Riding through the Northerly part of town more war scrap being put to good use.
Once outside of town it turned to the usual graded rocky surface.
Some good elevated spots, pity about the viz.
Still pretty good even if it rained.
Familiar slash and burn in progress.
This was the only spot i may have got into trouble i stopped across a ravine to take a picture of a small settlement, a guy was outside i wave a asked if i could take a picture, in seconds about a dozen guys all came out shouting at me so i quickly pushed off, reaching the top of the hill i snapped this zoomed picture heaven knows what they were up too.
Stopped in Sam Thong village which had been a huge medial and army base for a drink and spotted this remarkably fresh looking bomb casing.
Next to it was a pile of various shell and motor casings that looked way to live for me to look further...
Again metal scrap used for housing (god bless America)
As i left the village heading towards the Laos army camp a group of villagers arriving back all carrying knives, they all smiled so all good.
From here the route became more freshly graded work in progress.
Stopped by this small cave that had been oped as part of the grading works, looked pretty deep.
Signs of erosion already not sure how this would hold up in the rainy season.
Pretty elevated along this section.
Dark clouds on the horizon.
Small village coming to view in the valley.
Wish i had stopped to explore this village a little more.
Not shown graded trail heading South, worth exploring next time.
The village had lot's of war scrap around, they make nice seats.
Cluster bomb casings so i guess the place is littered with bombies.
The landscape changed suddenly indicating i was nearing Phonsavan.
Stopped off to take some pictures of the amphibious tank just off the roadside.
Couldn't resist a selfie.
Moving on i had time on my hands and sun began to shine so i headed to Khoune to see some of the old ruin's Auke had mentioned in an earlier post.
Guess this is French not sure what it is.
New swing bridge near town.
Old city wall.
Old Stupa in the distance.
To visit the two Stupa's and the wat will cost you 10,000 kip to each venue.
The other Stupa.
This cute Hmong girl was up there for pictures with her boyfriend i got this picture in exchange for letting him pose on my bike.
The Bombed Wat.
The old French Era hospital, must have been a very grand place in it's day.
Tourist stuff done i headed for Phonsavan and the Bamboozle for some nice food, sadly they are on low season opening and don't open until 5.30pm and no super breakfast for me. So it was across the road to the Simlay but not before stopping at the MAG shop to give a donation and get some more T Shirt (don't tell the wife).
Checked into the ground floor rooms and the White Orchid not bad for 80K Kip.
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